Sunday, November 30, 2014

Thanksgiving turkey stock from bones and vegetables.

Every year Mum would labor for two days preparing Thanksgiving turkey they way she learned how as a girl, developments in turkey breeding along the way notwithstanding. She roasted slowly overnight, basted slavishly the next day, and presented a beautifully evenly browned roasted bird suitable for Norman Rockwell's inspiration.

Dry as hell.

Left on the counter, we picked at it all day long and nobody sickened, nobody died.

Pleased to be done with it, satisfied all is well with the world, she was glad to be rid of the macabre large dead bird carcass. Year after year she pass on the notion of making stock from the bones. She had no use for stock anyway. Didn't even know what that is. It was not part of her early training. Not part of the deal. What a regrettable waste. X50

Do you know what to do with the carcass?

Pick the bones clean but don't bother to fuss. There is a lot of tendon and bones in there not worth the trouble. Remove slices if enough remains to do that, otherwise pick off the pieces both dark and white. The pieces can be used for soup, sandwiches, add to new stuffing, salads, burritos, tacos, tostadas, crepes, omelets, you name it.

I like to break the large bones so the marrow can drain. I also like to roast the bones for additional layers of flavors. I roast everything, skin, neck, liver, giblets, even vegetables if there is room on the pan. This produces a slightly darkened stock.


Roast until you can smell it. These bones were too hard for my kitchen pliers to break before roasting. They were broken after roasting so the marrow will drain into the water.  

The crisp bits of skin are delicious. Go on and indulge your inner cave-person and have a go at this mess right there straight from the oven. It doesn't get better than this. You sinister thing.


Boil until you can smell it. Until the odor takes over the whole place. Until you've had enough. More than hour. Less than, say, four hours. Fowl goes faster than beef. Chicken goes fastest of all.

If foam develops at the beginning then spoon it off. The protein-foam will cook back into the stock and it  tends to make the stock somewhat bitter. This doesn't happen so much when you roast everything first. I didn't bother this time.

Straining is in two parts. Most easily done done with two pots, the original pot and another.



Double bag the debris and get rid of it immediately. You do not want this stuff fermenting in your kitchen bin. 


Liquid gold. This is much better than what you can buy. 

It contains no herbs nor salt. This way you control things as you use it. Except for what remains from brining and whatever coated the skin. This liquid is perfect for too many things to list. You can drink it like this, a few herbs and pasta and bits that you picked off the cooked carcass make a perfect and perfectly simple meal.

When chilled the marrow within will develop a layer of gelatin. 

Usually a layer of liquid on the bottom, then a layer of gelatin, and sealing layer of fat on top. The layer of fat can be lifted off as a disc allowing you to control the amount of fat that you want for each use. 

Your success is measured by the amount of gelatin aspic. If the whole thing is aspic then you win 100%. Take a bow. If it is mostly liquid with thin layer of aspic then try harder next time. Boil longer next time to have all the marrow the bones contain. Or buy better birds next time. You will find organic and free range birds really do make the best stock.

Stock VS broth.

Stock is from bones and bits done like this. Broth is from boiled meat. 


17 comments:

ricpic said...

The oily film on top of the homemade chicken soup my bubbe (grandmother) made was as close as I got to heaven.

chickelit said...

The oily film on top of the homemade chicken soup my bubbe (grandmother) made was as close as I got to heaven.

Did you ever see that film clip of Harry Reid talking about the Corleone family and the chicken stock they wear in their hair?

Link

Chip Ahoy said...

Schmaltz.

It cures everything. Chapped lips to AIDS.

Michael Haz said...

Mmmm....schmaltz. A Mexican grocer new home sells chicken fat, duck fat, goose fat and rendered lard. All are excellent when used by cooks who have been fat-certified by the International Institute of Using The Fats.

Ever had french fries that were cooked in duck fat rather than mystery oil? Duck fat is like duck flavored butter when used on fries. None better.

I do the same thing with the leftover turkey bits and pieces as Chip did above. It's the best part of Thanksgiving cooking, at least for me.

Trooper York said...

Another great post Chip. I love to make broth the same way only I would use chicken like ricpic's bubbe.

Bleach Drinkers Curing Coronavirus Together said...

Pret-ty good. Pretttty, pretty, pretty good.

Bleach Drinkers Curing Coronavirus Together said...

Duck fat seems to be making its way through the food network/celebu-chef rounds but I'm not sure I've found a place that uses it yet. I've seen some amazing jars of it for sale and would purchase once I can think of a dish to make that would really zing with it.

The link above is my first best reason (after first hearing Guns n' Roses 28 years ago) for wanting to really visit L.A.

chickelit said...

Pretty, Pretty!

chickelit said...

Rejection of "duck fat" cries out for a spoonerism.

Bleach Drinkers Curing Coronavirus Together said...

Not to take your spoonerism too literally but IIRC ducks are supposed to be incredibly horny mofos that rape their lady-ducks and whatnot. They even have these incredibly long corkscrew-shaped dicks that match with the evolutionary association for aggressive mating.

We saw some really cool Mandarin ducks at a penned-in preserve last week.

AllenS said...

I soak my oily head in water for a half an hour, and use that for my broth.

Unknown said...

Many summers back- enjoyed a visit to the lovely Apple Orchard Inn just outside of Durango. The beautiful grounds are graced with meandering streams and ponds. Duck heaven.
One afternoon, the owner of the B&B purchased a Peking duck from the local farmer's market.
She felt sorry for the thing as it was supposed to be someone's dinner. She brought it home and set the male Peking free amongst the other native ducks. Soon enough he began to chase and sexually harass the other female ducks.

They named the duck "Arnie" after Ahhnold.
(It was odd to see this large white feathered orange billed duck floating around.)

Unknown said...

From turkey stock to horny ducks. We do it all here.

Dust Bunny Queen said...

Very very nice.

We had a duck this year for Thanksgiving. Long Island ducks are very fatty so I season with a dry rub and steam the duck on a rack in the wok. Prick some holes in the breast and thigh skin to get some of the fat to melt out and into the delicious broth in the wok under the steamer. Refrigerate and skim most of the duck fat off to use in cooking. Duck fat is DELICIOUS!

After eating all the meat from the duck, I use the carcass just like Chip. Adding back the broth from the first cooking, the cracked bones and vegetables I make broth and freeze it for duck soup.

The first soup, which I am making tonight is shrimp won tons in duck broth with some green onions and perhaps some napa cabbage if the store has any. (Our vegetable selections are pretty poor in the winter in our little local grocery).

Yummy!

Dust Bunny Queen said...

Forgot to mention that after steaming a quick crisping in the oven. This year I did a Peking Duck style laquering on the skin. Using local coffee berry honey, soy sauce, sesame oil and rice wine vinegar cooked down to a sludge. Crispy, brown, shinny. Delicious.

ndspinelli said...

"Long Island ducks are very fatty." So are Long Island singers[see: Billy Joel].

ndspinelli said...

That Peking Duck sounds wonderful!