Kasha Varnishkes

Kasha Varnishkes is an Ashkenazi Jewish recipe that originated in Eastern Europe. Kasha, in case you're not familiar with it, is buckwheat. Buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum) is a plant, related to rhubarb & sorrel, whose fruit is used as a food. Even though buckwheat fruit is not an actual cereal grain, it is dried and hulled in the same manner as cereal grains such as wheat (to which buckwheat is unrelated) and rye. The product of this hulling process is called buckwheat groats (no, not the medieval coin groat), or kasha. Kasha can be cooked to make a porridge, just like cereal groats; it's very hearty and healthy and since it's not a grain, is a good fiber-rich, gluten-free food. It has a unique, slightly bitter flavor, like other related plants, and a very chewy texture so you might need to get used to it. Kasha is also a common filling for knishes.

Buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum)

Kasha varnishkes was originally little kasha-stuffed dumplings, sort of like Yiddishe ravioli, but since the early 20th century it's usually a blend of kasha and Farfalle pasta. The dish is easy to make, the ingredients can be found in most grocery stores— look for kasha in the "Kosher" or "International Foods" aisle of your supermarket; the most common brand is Wolff's, which comes in a small black and gold box that you can see in the pictures accompanying this recipe. Get the "medium" texture kasha.

First off, you need schmaltz to make this recipe properly. Schmaltz is simply rendered chicken fat. If you live in a town with a good Jewish deli or store, you can buy a container of schmaltz, but it's very easy to make. Click "Read more" below for the technique & the recipe for Kasha Varnishkes.


To Make Schmaltz

Remove and save the raw skin & fat from several chickens, or ask your butcher for some. Chop it up and put it in a heavy, preferably cast iron, skillet. Add a little salt & fresh-ground pepper and cook uncovered over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the fat begins to melt & liquefy and the chicken solids start to brown. Add a few slices of onion and continue to cook until the onions and chicken solids are quite brown and crispy. Allow to partially cool, then strain the liquid fat through a sieve into a jar. The browned, crispy, fatty, delicious pieces that are left after rendering the schmaltz are called gribenes, otherwise known as cracklings. Salt them while they're still hot, they make a delicious snack. They're also great crumbled onto a green salad with a good homemade vinaigrette.

Kasha Varnishkes

• 2 large Spanish (yellow) onions, sliced
• 1/4 cup schmaltz
• 1 cup medium-texture kasha
• 1 large egg, beaten
• 2 cups good, rich chicken stock (or water as a last resort)
• Salt and fresh-ground pepper to taste

• 1 pound farfalle (bow tie-shaped) pasta, cooked al dente

• fresh chopped parsley or cilantro, as a garnish

Slice the onions into medium-thin rings. Put 3/4 of the schmaltz and the sliced onions into a large, cold sauté pan. Cover the pan,  set it over medium low heat and cook slowly for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions are golden brown and soft. Remove the onions to a bowl and set aside until later. As a side note, this method of cooking onions (putting onions & a fat into a cold pan, cooking on low-ish heat for at least 20 minutes, covered) is the best way to get the most flavor out of onions for use in almost any recipe.

Pour the beaten egg into a medium bowl and add the kasha. Mix with a fork until all the groats are thoroughly coated in egg.

Put the coated kasha into the sauté pan in which you cooked the onions and set over high heat. Using a heatproof spatula or spoon, vigorously stir, flatten and separate the egg-coated kasha for about 3 or 4 minutes, until the kasha looks dry and has turned golden brown, and the kernels have mostly separated from each other. The kasha must be thoroughly toasted but be careful not to burn it.

Pour the stock into the sauté pan with the toasted kasha. Add salt & pepper and bring the mixture to the boil. Add the cooked onions, cover the pan, reduce the heat to low and cook for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and stir. The kasha should be tender and the stock should be mostly absorbed. If there's still some liquid visible, cover the pan again and cook for another few minutes. Think of it like rice, it should be moist and tender, and not soupy.

Put the cooked farfalle into a big serving bowl. Add the cooked kasha, and the remaining schmaltz, and mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary, and sprinkle on the parsley or cilantro (or both!). 

Serve with a delicious roasted or poached chicken, or roast beef or lamb, or by itself.