Wednesday, June 18, 2014

The Old World Kitchen

Elisabeth Luard 1987. This is a large book, some 521 pages. No pictures and that makes me sad.

Luard does survey the whole world. Good Lord, she traveled and researched deeply. She looks at the food that peasant farmers eat and have eaten for centuries. It is an historical survey of the food of the poor.

I'm seeing a new version on Amazon for $19.00, my version used for $30.00, but gleefully, I see my version at Abebooks for $1.00 +$2.50 shipping, I'd snatch up one of those in an instant.

The book is filled with enlightening anecdotes throughout about how people lived, how they grew their own food and survived, how they stored food, traded food, and prepared food. Flipping through recipes it looks like adding this to that and that's it. The book is about how people got by and survived. They ate like kings.

Abebooks, Old World Kitchen. Elizabeth Luard Condition: very good

Had Michelle Obama simply read such a book as this, then her Princeton and Harvard education irrelevance regarding food preparation for herself and for her family would be ... well, irrelevant. This one book is all that a person would need to see for themselves how they've been snookered into thinking food acquisition and food preparation is out of their hands, beyond them, confusing, that food industry is too scientific to be available to them. That hotdogs must come from a hotdog factory, that pudding must come from a box, that hamburger needs help found in a box by some industrial interest, that rice must be reconstituted -- to what? From what? And had she just read through this one single book she would be happily propounding its virtues therein and not attempting to impose one-size fits all standards, and questionable standards at that, across an entire far-flung and resisting nation through law and by government agencies, politicizing food. She would teach and show by kindness and by knowing and by example and not struggling to impose from the top by force of will.
Oats
Porridge, a thick gruel which could be made with barley or rye as well as oats, was always the great staple dish of the northern peasantry, particularly in Scandinavia and Scotland, which share many culinary preferences as well as climate. During their military scurries with the Scots, the English sometimes attributed their opponents' success to their excessively simple and easily prepared diet. Porridge needs minimum preparation in exchange for maximum food value.
The shepherds of Glen Feshie lived on porridge, reported Elizabeth Grant in 1898 
The shepherds lived in bothies on the hill, miles from any other habitation, often quite alone, their collie dog their only companion, and with no provisions beyond a bag of meal. This they generally ate uncooked, mixed with either milk or water as happened to suit, the milk or water being mostly cold, few of these hardy mountaineers troubling themselves to keep a fire lighted in fine weather. This simple food, called brose, is rather relished by the Highlanders; made with beef broo -- the fat skimmings of the broth pot -- it is considered quite a treat.  Beef brose is entertainment for anyone.  The water brose must be wholesome; no men looked better in health than the masons, who ate it regularly, and the shepherds. These last came down from their high ground to attend the kirk sometimes, in such looks as put to shame the luxurious dwellers in the smoky huts with their hot porridge and other delicacies. [Memoirs of a Highland Lady. Elizabeth Grant of Rothiemurchus, 1830]  
Midlothian oats are reputedly the best, but some reckon the small Highland ones are better. 
Serves: 1
Time" 5 minutes plus 20 to 30 minutes cooking 
1 breakfast bowlful water (just under a half pint) per person
1 handful coarsely milled oatmeal (a little over 1 ounce) per person
1/2 teaspoon salt.
Me:

Oatmeal is crap without salt and I mean it. It must have salt. But why stop there? Look, you are American, load it up with butter, include a teaspoon brown sugar for its molasses, have fruit in there, dry fruit is fantastic, raisins, craisins, and nuts, and so is fresh fruit. Put anything in there you like or that you have on hand, finally for hot/cold contrast pour over the whole thing cold milk or cream for an extra extravagance and I guarantee you will not find a more satisfying meal, one that keeps you satisfied for the rest of the day. If you are dieting, you cannot do better than this.



Look at that! What? Oh, no he dint.

See my site, if you like, search [oatmeal] in Blogger's search in top left corner, and be surprised what pops up.


Oats as whole grain is marketed as groats that are de-husked. They take a good while to cook. This is the best you can do. Nothing is lost to processing. Just the real deal. The real dadgum Scottish deal.

You can put these groats in your coffee mill and chop them up into bits for faster cooking and retain their full nutritional value. If you over process they will turn into powder that will cook to oats-polenta.

Rolled oats are steamed then smashed with heavy steel rollers for faster cooking. They are already partially cooked and flattened. They microwave in four or five minutes. Very convenient. Some nutrition is lost in this processing.

Rolled oats marketed as oatmeal have been cooked slightly under pressure or baked. You will find thick rolled oats and rolled oats that have been baked or pressure cooked and rolled oat fragments, these bits absorb water much more easily than bits simply broken, and the processing, packaging, transportation and storage as such manhandled bits sacrifices nutrition.

Steel cut oats are groats processed through a steel burr mill. This you can do in your own coffee bean grinder.

Smashed flat and baked and steamed and pressure cooked and cut into bits and packaged in tiny unsatisfying portions.

Cut rolled oats are all that described above chopped up even finer, processed further and longer for even more speed and convenience. These are the most heavily handled, most processed of all, most seriously packaged, and  least nutritional of all.

The oats lauded at top are the original groats that do take some time to absorb water or milk and fat. For the home cook it comes down to a matter of time, and cleaning a pot.  The time being 20 to 30 minutes.

Recommended: groats.

This post has been edited by me 1 and a half times. Complaints accepted in comments.

20 comments:

Synova said...

We get a steel cut oatmeal from Costco. Waaaaay better than rolled.

The longer it takes to cook any of that stuff, the better it is. Cream of Wheat *must* be followed by "10 minutes" on the package or don't bother.

I've never tried groats though. I should get some.

Yes salt. Yes butter.

(I do have a cookie recipe that needs "quick" rolled oats, but that's all they're good for.)

Lem the artificially intelligent said...

I'll get it.

Rabel said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Trooper York said...

I have been making groats with almond milk and various fruits mixed in such as blueberries, blackberries and strawberries.

Just got in a big bag of fresh peaches and I am going to try that.

Trooper York said...

Not much salt though. It seems to be ok. Just a little honey.

AllenS said...

You can't eat grits without a pad of butter on it. They even know this in jail.

Rabel said...

Oatmeal is a little like grits, isn't it, in that it/they serves/serve as a transport mechanism. In the case of grits, transporting primarily salt and butter.

Next time I make grits, I'll eat them with extra fixins in honor of Trooper York.

Trooper York said...

I wish I could eat more salt and butter. But I have to find another way.

So lots of fresh fruits. Almond or coconut milk. Maybe some fresh herbs.

I have to experiment.

ken in tx said...

Use the same recipe except use corn meal instead of oats. You will get corn meal mush. It has the consistency of cream of wheat, but with the slight flavor of corn on the cob. I found the recipe in a 50s era Boy Scout manual.

rcocean said...

Whenever I see Oatmeal I think of "Gruel" - the stuff they fed Oliver Twist.

I tried eating some steel-cut oatmeal, but it took 30 minutes to cook. Sorry, but I'm an American - I'm not waiting 30 minutes to eat oatmeal, I don't care how "whole-grain" it is.

So I know I eat raw oatmeal with Yogurt and fruit. Fast and nutritious.

Trooper York said...

I have been doing a lot of stuff with Fage Greek yogurt with 0 fat and very little carbs. It is excellent for desert. Just add some fruit and shaved almonds and you have a healthy tasty desert.

Chip Ahoy said...

Trooper, that also makes a great salad dressing in place of mayonnaise.

As to salt. I get what your doctor is telling you and I dare not counter his instructions.

However, another friend of mine is also on a salt-free kick but without any health issues at all. He just jumps every bandwagaon that goes trumbling by and fancies himself better-informed than most and super duper health conscious besides.

And yet he is not a stud.

No salt, no salt, no salt, no salt, no salt, no salt, no salt, he turned salt in to enemy #1. Next year it will be something else. Whatever the nutritionist declare on whatever source of information he relies. He proselytizes endlessly and annoyingly.

The thing is, there is way too much salt in processed food. They put it there to compensate for their less than glorious ingredients. To counter the additives that must go in to emulsify and to last, to make visually appealing, to endure transportation, packaging, and handling, settling, and to avoid contamination. It's a fake out.

However when all or most the things that you buy are raw ingredients that you assemble yourself then there is no salt at all and you do need salt. It must be added. All grains are crap without salt. They're just awful. Oats is one of those. I've tried it, in bread too, I forget to add salt and it's just awful, you know immediately it's wrong.

I go, "goddamnit, I forgot the salt again. Now I must add a pinch for each slice, because the butter is saltless too."

I do not buy processed food. Not because I'm such a whiz, but because my body cannot take it. My nerves go berserk. They literally freak out. So it's all unprocessed food to keep my last good nerve in line.

I honestly think cutting out processed food to the extent that you can, and cutting back on salt considerably will go very far in achieving what your doctor instructs. Where a recipe calls for a teaspoon of salt, then add 1/8 teaspoon instead. Same with sugar, and white flour and the like. The things that your body reacts to.

Eric the Fruit Bat said...

Maybe this is off topic and maybe it's not.

I dunno. I only skimmed.

But the blueberries right now are FUCKING FANTASTIC!!!

Priced 2 for 1, . . . they come from North Carolina, so says the wife.

Jersey blueberries can't be far behind!

ndspinelli said...

Fage yogurt on our baked potatoes, better than sour cream.

Darcy said...

I want some groats now. That picture makes it look delicious.

Agree with Chip about the salt, Troop. You have to do what you think is best to stay healthy, but I think, like a lot of foods "experts" have been telling us are bad for us, we are going to find out that the "no salt!" stuff is way exaggerated.

Yogurt - Insty had a link to some salad dressing recipes made with yogurt recently. I'll find the link. They sound delicious.

Eric the Fruit Bat said...

One word: Potassium Chloride.

Trooper York said...

Thanks for the help Chip and Darcy.

Almost all of the food I eat these days I make myself from fresh ingredients. In fact that was the case even before I got sick. But now I am taking it to a new level. I do use a pinch of salt here or there. My doctor is a guinea from the other side and his watchword is moderation in all things. It is as you say. When you eat out everything is very very salty.

I have found a bunch of very tasty alternatives in various spices and herbs. You don't even really notice it.

Trooper York said...

The hardest part is cutting down on delicious carbs such as bread, potatoes or pasta.

Evi L. Bloggerlady said...

Steel cut is fine (and superior), but it takes longer to cook it.

What I love about that photo is the fruit.

Like Trooper, I use almond and coconut milk sometimes, it is okay. I need a break from regular milk sometimes.

Evi L. Bloggerlady said...

If you cut back on salt and sugar, your sensitivity to the taste of both goes way up.

I use flake salt because it is super flavorful without using a lot. Next is kosher or course pink salt. I almost never use table salt.

I find that avoiding refined sugar makes fruit taste so much more sweeter.